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Waves breaking against the black rock shoreline at Waiʻānapanapa State Park near Hāna

The Valley Isle

Maui

A summit above the clouds, a rainforest highway and some of the most swimmable beaches in the state, wrapped around the widest choice of resorts and condos in Hawaii.

Airport OGG, KahuluiIdeal stay 6 to 8 daysHāna round trip A full dayBest for Beaches and resorts

Photo by Tyke Jones on Unsplash

Maui is the island most people picture when they picture Hawaii. Long swimmable beaches on the leeward side, a 10,000-foot volcano you can drive up and a coastal road through rainforest that people talk about for years afterwards.

It asks more of your planning than Oʻahu. The good beaches, the summit and the Hāna coast sit in three different directions, and Maui roads are slow. Choosing your base well is the one decision that decides whether the week feels relaxed or feels like commuting.

Travel here with some awareness too. The August 2023 wildfire destroyed much of Lahaina town and killed more than 100 people. Recovery is still going on. Visitors are welcome across the island, but treat the burn area as the place people lost their homes rather than something to look at.

What to actually do

The four that earn their day

Sunrise breaking above the clouds from the summit of Haleakalā on Maui
01
Summit

Sunrise on Haleakalā

Above the clouds at 10,023 feet with the sun coming up through a volcanic crater. Entry during the sunrise window needs a separate Recreation.gov booking on top of the park fee. Dress for near freezing. People underestimate this every single morning.

The bamboo forest on the Pipiwai Trail near Hāna, reached at the far end of the drive
02
Drive

The Road to Hāna

Roughly 64 miles, 600 curves and 50-odd one-lane bridges to a town that is deliberately unremarkable. The stops are the reason to go: bamboo forest, black sand at Waiʻānapanapa, waterfalls and banana bread stands. Leave at dawn or you meet everyone else.

A snorkeller above a Hawaiian coral reef in clear shallow water
03
Snorkel

Molokini and the turtle reefs

A sunken crater rim three miles offshore where visibility often runs past 100 feet. Book the first boat of the day. By mid-morning the wind is up and so is everybody else.

A humpback whale breaching off the west coast of Maui
04
Wildlife

Whale season

From December to March humpbacks fill the ʻAuʻau Channel between Maui, Lānaʻi and Molokaʻi. You will see them from shore. You will see far more from a small boat.

Where to base yourself

Your choice of base decides the trip

On every island the wrong base adds an hour of driving to each day. These are the areas worth booking and who each one suits.

01

Wailea and Mākena, south

The driest, sunniest coast with the most reliable swimming and the top-end resorts. Expensive, polished and lovely.

Best for Couples, resort vacations

02

Kīhei, south

The value play. A strip of condos with kitchens along a long run of beach parks. Less pretty than Wailea, far cheaper, same weather.

Best for Families, longer stays

03

Kāʻanapali and Nāpili, west

Classic resort Maui with a beach walk and good snorkeling at Black Rock. Closest to west side boat departures. Check current conditions as the area keeps recovering.

Best for Beach walkers, snorkellers

04

Upcountry and Pāʻia, north

Cool air, farm country and the shortest run to both Haleakalā and the Hāna highway. Quiet evenings, no beach on your doorstep.

Best for Sunrise chasers, road trippers

Getting around

A rental car is essential, and book it early. Maui runs out of cars in peak weeks and prices spike hard when it does. Fill the tank before the Hāna highway, and give the west to south drive more time than the map suggests.

When to go

Late April to early June is the sweet spot: warm, dry and quiet between school break. December to March brings whales and higher prices. September and October are hot, calm and good value.

Know before you go

  • Haleakalā sunrise entry and Waiʻānapanapa State Park both need advance reservations, booked separately, well ahead of your dates.
  • The Road to Hāna is a full day. Do not attempt it on a flight day, and do not drive it in the dark.
  • Respect Lahaina. Support the businesses that have reopened and stay away from the burn area.
  • Afternoon wind is a real planning factor on the south and west coasts. Do water activities in the morning.

Before you book

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